I have never had the opportunity to see my husband surf waves like this.
When he went to Costa Rica for a week this past January, I was jealous. Not because of the great folks he was with, but because they got to see him surf those waves and I didn’t.
Now I have, and it was better than raw oysters, girls.
After a long drive down a rough dirt road, we came to a stop and climbed out of the truck. Our first view of this place knocked the wind out of me. Unspoiled, completely empty of another human being and raw beauty. The water was crystal clear and you could see the rays swimming below your board. This place absolutely enchanted my family. If I had to pin down a description of it in one word, the only thing that comes to me is “Wild”.
Here is Mia, surfing the Wild, somewhere in Oaxaca, Mexico.