Bill and I had gone surfing with Mia, and I just can’t describe how beautiful the day was. When we came home, I sat down at the computer to write, and when I finished it Bill said “You need to publish that” and he got on the computer and brought up Liquid Salt and said “Send it to them now”. And I did, along with this explanation of the text to the editor:
We had just bought a new longboard and hit the beach on Black Friday
to avoid the crowds and craziness. Water was clear and the waves were clean and
glassy…thigh to waist high. I watched from my board as my husband and
daughter rode tandem on the new 9’3″ long board. Such joy!! Later she paddled
out to the outside with us and surfed those waves on her own board…paddling in
fiercely, and not allowing any help from us. She’s a very small little girl,
just shy of 4 feet tall and 50 lbs dripping wet. Waves were about chest high on
her and she had a blast. It was an amazing day and I can’t for the life of me
imagine a different life for my family….that salt life. I thought about it
and realized that the love of the ocean and the desire to be near it is, for
some of us, a yearning that goes beyond the love of the beach. It helps define
us and our life revolves around the ocean. My husband and I were both born with
that strong, strong desire to be near the sea and it seems my daughter feels
the same way. We also have 3 other children…..3 boys ages 18, 15, and 12.
Only the 18 year old shares with us the love of surfing and the ocean. These
differences in our family had me thinking, so I sat down and wrote a bit.
To my surprise and absolute stoke the editor replied that evening:
Thank you for writing to us.Today was sunny and warm and the waves were small, but once in the water, I was struck by the clarity of the ocean and the colors. Around me in the water and on the beach were families with kids learning to surf with their dads. I happened upon your email as I got into my car after drying off from a good paipo session. Needless to say it hit me with a lot of impact. I enjoyed every line of your ode and resonated with its meaning in a deep way. I would love to run your piece on LS……
And he did.
Above anything I have published, this one makes me the most proud. Not because of the writing…. but to be included among some of the most beautiful and soulful surfers and artists from around the globe.
I hope you will enjoy my ode and if you’d like, leave a comment there and let me know if it resonates with you too. Be sure to flip through the pages of Liquid Salt and soak up some of the beautiful Aloha sun, surf and soul found there. You may look up and realize you have been reading for hours!